Why Commercial Kitchens Use Stainless Steel (& How Galvanized Steel Is Different)
Stainless steel became the standard in commercial kitchens because it holds up to constant commercial daily use: hot water, acidic sauces, bleach-based sanitizers, and constant scrubbing. It doesn’t rust the way plain steel does, and its surface is non-porous, so bacteria and food residue don’t work their way into it the way they can with a rougher material. This is a common issue with other materials, and why NSF certifications are needed in commercial kitchens.
Galvanized steel is the other metal you’ll still see on equipment, usually on legs, undershelves, and frames rather than tabletops. It’s a great way to bring down material costs when the surface won’t come into direct contact with food. It’s steel with a zinc coating, and that coating breaks down in two situations: contact with acidic liquids, and exposure to heat. This is why galvanized steel eventually starts to rust. You’d be surprised how acidic normal liquids are, and they all slowly break away at the zinc coating over time. Rainwater is also acidic, and that’s why we recommend our Premium full stainless steel tables when prepping outside or in humid areas.
Health codes restrict galvanized surfaces from touching acidic food for this reason, and if a galvanized part sits too close to a heat source, the coating can degrade and release fumes. It’s a reasonable material for a dry, structural piece like table legs, but it’s just not a suitable material for anything near food or heat.
304, 204, 430, and 316: When Each is Needed
Most restaurant equipment is built from 1 of 4 stainless steel grades, and knowing which one you’re looking at tells you how long it will hold up.
Type 430 is the most common stainless steel found in the commercial food industry. If a spec sheet just says “stainless steel” and is magnetic, it’s very likely 430. This type skips nickel almost entirely, which keeps the material costs down. 430 holds up fine in dry, low-moisture spots like exterior panels or backsplashes, but it doesn’t perform as well as 304 under constant wet use. Because of the material composition, 430 is always magnetic.
Type 304 stainless steel is the standard for anything that touches food on a regular basis. It runs 18 to 20% chromium and 8 to 10% nickel, which gives it strong resistance to rust, chlorides, and the acids in tomato sauce or citrus. It’s the grade behind most NSF-approved sinks, tables, and refrigeration interiors. They are also more resistant to scratches overall, so they hold a nicer finish for longer.
Type 316 adds molybdenum on top of what 304 offers, making it the strongest option against salt and harsh chemicals. It’s definitely needed in coastal kitchens, hospitals, and specialized equipment, but it’s a more specialized type of stainless steel. The composition also makes this the most expensive type found in the industry.
Type 204 is showing up recently in the industry. It looks similar to 304 in composition, but most of that nickel is swapped out for manganese, dropping nickel content down to around 0.5% instead of 8 to 10%. Less nickel means less corrosion resistance, especially anywhere cleaning chemicals or salt are involved. It’s cheaper to produce, and that’s exactly why some suppliers use it without saying so. It’s also non-magnetic, so sometimes customers will assume it’s 304. Rule of thumb: almost all brands will highlight if their stainless steel is 304 to bring attention to the added benefits. If the spec sheet or brand doesn’t specify, and the stainless is non-magnetic, it’s safe to say it’s 204.
Gauge Thickness, and Why Sinks Leak at the Corners
Grade or type tells you what the steel is made of. Gauge tells you how thick it is, and the two work in tandem. Stainless steel gauge works backwards from what you’d expect: a lower gauge number means a thicker metal. 18 gauge stainless steel runs about 1.2mm thick, and 16 gauge runs about 1.5mm. We typically come across thicknesses from 20 gauge to 14 gauge. Anything thicker than that becomes very difficult to work with when bending or molding into shape.
This matters a lot for sinks. A sink isn’t cut flat and left that way. It’s bent or drawn into shape from a single sheet, and that forming process stretches the metal when bending. Those bent spots come out of production a little thinner than the flat sections around them. So if the sheet was thin to begin with, the corners are where cracks or pinholes develop, causing leaking.
We use thicker 16 gauge stainless steel to help prevent this from happening, and to provide a better and longer lasting sink. Our Phoenix Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Sinks are built from 16 gauge 304 stainless steel, priced from $299 to $479 CAD. This leaves enough material left at the corners after forming to hold up to years of scrubbing, hot water, and daily traffic. We also use 304 stainless steel, which isn’t as common as you think, to ensure they last in your kitchen for years.
Our Phoenix Premium Work Tables run 16 gauge (1.5mm) 304 stainless steel with stainless steel legs and undershelving, priced from $180 to $700 CAD depending on size.
We know not every situation calls for full stainless steel, so we also carry our economy option. This way we have an option for every situation. Our Phoenix Economy Work Tables use a lighter 18 gauge (1.2mm) 430 stainless steel top, priced from $100 to $495 CAD, a fair option for kitchens that need a lower-cost surface or are using it in dry environments.
How to Tell If Stainless Steel Is Good Quality Before You Buy
A few checks tell you everything you need to know:
- Check the grade number. If a spec sheet just says “stainless steel” or “premium stainless steel” with no number attached, ask for one directly. Remember, a higher grade is usually marketed and advertised with the product, since it’s an expensive upgrade to provide.
- Try the magnet test. Most 304 stainless steel is non-magnetic or only weakly magnetic, while 430 is more strongly magnetic. It’s not perfect on its own, but it will guide you in the right direction.
- Check the corners on a sink, not just the flat surfaces. Run a hand along the inside radius. Thin, sharp-feeling corners with visible flex are a sign of light gauge stock that was already stretched thin during forming.
